Spring Trails and Denali Prep

The past few years I joked around with my wife and climbing/running buddies about climbing Denali (Mount McKinley), but honestly I never gave it much thought.  Last January plans got serious when Jack flew down from Alaska and we went and climbed some vertical ice to discuss the possibility.  After the climb I was mentally engaged to the endeavor.  A few weeks later I pulled the trigger and got the $680 airline tickets then paid the $350 NPS fee.  Gear prep began at once and has just now concluded. A frustrating part about going to climb in Alaska is that I own lots of nice ski and winter gear, but a lot of it is not up to snuff for Denali, ie puffy Marmot Jacket not puffy enough, nice Sportiva Mountaineering boots not even close to warm enough.  So much much Ebay, KSL Classifieds, Rei, IME, Gear 30, and  Backcountry.com surfing ensued. Resulting in:

Gear List	Brand/Model	Retail $	What I Paid (0 = already owned or borrowed)
Boots	La Sportiva Olympus Mons	1000	880
Sleeping bag	Western Mountaineering PUMA GWS	900	350
Puffy Coat	Mtn Hardware Absolute Zero	800	300
Outer Jacket	Patagonia M's Super Pluma	549	180
Pack	Gregory Denali Pro	499	280
GoPro	Three	400	0
Micro Puffy Jacket	Patagonia Micro Down	350	0
Outer Pant	Rab Latok Alpine Pants	260	139
Avi Beacon abd Probe	Tracker	210	0
Soft Shell Coat	Mtn Hardware	200	0
Mitts	Black Diamond Light	199	99
Butane Stove	MSR Reactor	199	50
Insulated Pants	Moutain Hardware Compressor	180	120
Ascenders	Petzl	160	0
Ice scews	Grivel   (3)	150	0
Snow Shoes	Atlas	150	0
Crampons	Grivel G14	150	0
Liquid Fuel Stove	MSR XGK	140	80
Mountain House Food	Mtn House (4x18)	125	90
Glacier Gogs	Julbo Revolution	120	84
Glacier Specs	Julbo Explorer	100	75
Helmet	Petzl	90	0
Fleece jacket	Patagonia	90	30
Air Pad	Thermorest	90	0
Duffle	Stoic	80	0
Capaline Tops (3)	Patagonia	75	45
Axe	BD Raven Pro	75	0
Solar Charger	Goal Zero	75	0
Harness	Petzl	60	0
Water Bottle Parkas	OR	60	40
Down Booties	?	60	0
Shovel	Brooks Sharktooth Longneck Pro Shovel	55	36
Titanium Pot	Stoic	50	35
Snow Saw	BD	50	50
Work Gloves	Stoic	40	0
Carabiners	Misc	50	0
Fleece Pants	rei	40	0
Liners	Black Diamond	35	15
Ninjaclava	OR	35	15
Foam Pad	Thermorest z lite	35	28
Sun Runner Cap	OR	35	22
Picket	MSR	30	24
Capaline Bottems	Patagonia	25	18
Wool Beanie	Sherpa	25	0
Socks	Stoic	20	0
Head Wrap	Buff	20	20
Lighter	Rei	20	20
Face Mask	OR	15	0
Prusick Cord		15	15
Screw Top Bowl		15	15
Scruffy Mountain Beard		Priceless	0
		8206	3155

With 5 days to go, I just need to get the rest of  my food together and cram it all in the packs.

The route we are attempting is called the West Buttress, and is by far the most traveled on the mountain. Some of the Stats are quite intimidating: The mountain is 20,237 ft.  tall and “At some 18,000 feet (5,500 m), the base to peak rise is considered the largest of any mountain situated entirely above sea level”  (wiki) Around 1100 attempt the summit and 40-50% are successful.  Last year was the most summits ever with 787.  This year is off to a slow start with 12 out of 43 attempts successful summits. Hundreds are on the mountain now. 

Next Thursday, Jack, Brooks, John, and I will land on the Kahiltna Glacier at 7200 ft and then spend the next 16-20 days on the mountain fighting the most notorious storms and brutal conditions in the hemisphere. My gear will be split up between a 60 lb pack pulled on a sled and a 40 lb pack on my back.  We will dig in and make camps at 7800, 9000, 11000, 14000, and high camp at 17,200, then go for the summit.

My physical training has mostly consisted of running and climbing with the following highlights:

1.       A long week end climbing towers and running in Colorado National Monument

2.       A few ski tours with lots of vert to finish off winter and Spring.

3.       A couple of Zion trips with lots of climbing, ridge runs, obscure summits, and super fast canyoneering (Spry in 2:45 and Keyhole in 15 minutes car to car)

4.       Running the Buffalo 50 in 8:01.  A 14 minutes improvement over last year.

5.       Laps up and down Adams waterfall and Eds peak.

6.       A speed go at Olympus and Wire. With a sub 2 hr Oly and 35 minute run up Wire.

7.       A full season of semi-competitive intramural cross country with consistent 19 minute 5K’s

8.       A fun 8 minute pace 21 mile run at the so called "Wedge" over looking the San Rafael River’s Little Grand Canyon

9.       Lots of BCC and gym climbing crowned with a clean lead on Namaste 5.12a in Zion. (my first 12) 

10.   Lots of hauling little Anna on my back.

11.   Weekly ultimate Frisbee matches and heavy weight lift sessions thrown in here and there

12.   A 10,000 ft vert day on the treadmill.