The past few years I joked around with my wife and climbing/running buddies about climbing Denali (Mount McKinley), but honestly I never gave it much thought. Last January plans got serious when Jack flew down from Alaska and we went and climbed some vertical ice to discuss the possibility. After the climb I was mentally engaged to the endeavor. A few weeks later I pulled the trigger and got the $680 airline tickets then paid the $350 NPS fee. Gear prep began at once and has just now concluded. A frustrating part about going to climb in Alaska is that I own lots of nice ski and winter gear, but a lot of it is not up to snuff for Denali, ie puffy Marmot Jacket not puffy enough, nice Sportiva Mountaineering boots not even close to warm enough. So much much Ebay, KSL Classifieds, Rei, IME, Gear 30, and Backcountry.com surfing ensued. Resulting in:
Gear List
|
Brand/Model
|
Retail $
|
What I Paid
(0 = already owned or borrowed)
|
Boots
|
La Sportiva Olympus Mons
|
1000
|
880
|
Sleeping bag
|
Western Mountaineering PUMA GWS
|
900
|
350
|
Puffy Coat
|
Mtn Hardware Absolute Zero
|
800
|
300
|
Outer Jacket
|
Patagonia M's Super Pluma
|
549
|
180
|
Pack
|
Gregory Denali Pro
|
499
|
280
|
GoPro
|
Three
|
400
|
0
|
Micro Puffy Jacket
|
Patagonia Micro Down
|
350
|
0
|
Outer Pant
|
Rab Latok Alpine Pants
|
260
|
139
|
Avi Beacon abd Probe
|
Tracker
|
210
|
0
|
Soft Shell Coat
|
Mtn Hardware
|
200
|
0
|
Mitts
|
Black Diamond Light
|
199
|
99
|
Butane Stove
|
MSR Reactor
|
199
|
50
|
Insulated Pants
|
Moutain Hardware Compressor
|
180
|
120
|
Ascenders
|
Petzl
|
160
|
0
|
Ice scews
|
Grivel (3)
|
150
|
0
|
Snow Shoes
|
Atlas
|
150
|
0
|
Crampons
|
Grivel G14
|
150
|
0
|
Liquid Fuel Stove
|
MSR XGK
|
140
|
80
|
Mountain House Food
|
Mtn House (4x18)
|
125
|
90
|
Glacier Gogs
|
Julbo Revolution
|
120
|
84
|
Glacier Specs
|
Julbo Explorer
|
100
|
75
|
Helmet
|
Petzl
|
90
|
0
|
Fleece jacket
|
Patagonia
|
90
|
30
|
Air Pad
|
Thermorest
|
90
|
0
|
Duffle
|
Stoic
|
80
|
0
|
Capaline Tops (3)
|
Patagonia
|
75
|
45
|
Axe
|
BD Raven Pro
|
75
|
0
|
Solar Charger
|
Goal Zero
|
75
|
0
|
Harness
|
Petzl
|
60
|
0
|
Water Bottle Parkas
|
OR
|
60
|
40
|
Down Booties
|
?
|
60
|
0
|
Shovel
|
Brooks Sharktooth Longneck Pro Shovel
|
55
|
36
|
Titanium Pot
|
Stoic
|
50
|
35
|
Snow Saw
|
BD
|
50
|
50
|
Work Gloves
|
Stoic
|
40
|
0
|
Carabiners
|
Misc
|
50
|
0
|
Fleece Pants
|
rei
|
40
|
0
|
Liners
|
Black Diamond
|
35
|
15
|
Ninjaclava
|
OR
|
35
|
15
|
Foam Pad
|
Thermorest z lite
|
35
|
28
|
Sun Runner Cap
|
OR
|
35
|
22
|
Picket
|
MSR
|
30
|
24
|
Capaline Bottems
|
Patagonia
|
25
|
18
|
Wool Beanie
|
Sherpa
|
25
|
0
|
Socks
|
Stoic
|
20
|
0
|
Head Wrap
|
Buff
|
20
|
20
|
Lighter
|
Rei
|
20
|
20
|
Face Mask
|
OR
|
15
|
0
|
Prusick Cord
|
15
|
15
| |
Screw Top Bowl
|
15
|
15
| |
Scruffy Mountain Beard
|
Priceless
|
0
| |
8206
|
3155
|
With 5 days to go, I just need to get the rest of my food together and cram it all in the packs.
The route we are attempting is called the West Buttress, and is by far the most traveled on the mountain. Some of the Stats are quite intimidating: The mountain is 20,237 ft. tall and “At some 18,000 feet (5,500 m), the base to peak rise is considered the largest of any mountain situated entirely above sea level” (wiki) Around 1100 attempt the summit and 40-50% are successful. Last year was the most summits ever with 787. This year is off to a slow start with 12 out of 43 attempts successful summits. Hundreds are on the mountain now.
Next Thursday, Jack, Brooks, John, and I will land on the Kahiltna Glacier at 7200 ft and then spend the next 16-20 days on the mountain fighting the most notorious storms and brutal conditions in the hemisphere. My gear will be split up between a 60 lb pack pulled on a sled and a 40 lb pack on my back. We will dig in and make camps at 7800, 9000, 11000, 14000, and high camp at 17,200, then go for the summit.
My physical training has mostly consisted of running and climbing with the following highlights:
1. A long week end climbing towers and running in Colorado National Monument
2. A few ski tours with lots of vert to finish off winter and Spring.
3. A couple of Zion trips with lots of climbing, ridge runs, obscure summits, and super fast canyoneering (Spry in 2:45 and Keyhole in 15 minutes car to car)
4. Running the Buffalo 50 in 8:01. A 14 minutes improvement over last year.
5. Laps up and down Adams waterfall and Eds peak.
6. A speed go at Olympus and Wire. With a sub 2 hr Oly and 35 minute run up Wire.
7. A full season of semi-competitive intramural cross country with consistent 19 minute 5K’s
8. A fun 8 minute pace 21 mile run at the so called "Wedge" over looking the San Rafael River’s Little Grand Canyon
9. Lots of BCC and gym climbing crowned with a clean lead on Namaste 5.12a in Zion. (my first 12)
10. Lots of hauling little Anna on my back.
11. Weekly ultimate Frisbee matches and heavy weight lift sessions thrown in here and there
12. A 10,000 ft vert day on the treadmill.
